2nd July 2014. (An apology is due, I stuffed up and hit the publish button instead of save draft button, it is Mo’s fault.)
Just got back from the most fun surf so far. I think I wrote before that I have got a bit of fitness back, well that is the biggest load of crap ever written. I am so unfit and with the waves like they have been it is life and death for me at all times.
We left Lugu Bay and had a nice little 17 mile drive over to P. Lasia, the sea was like a mirror with lumps on it, not a breath of wind. The anchorage, 02 10.564N 96 38.800E, at Lasia is well protected from the west and such a beautiful place, we were anchored in 10 metres and stayed a bit further out than has been suggested but we had no effects from wind or swell.
Set sail next morning for P. Bangkaru, aka Treasure Island, a 30 mile stretch and made it by mid afternoon, coming around the southern tip of Bangkaru I spotted 2 dinghies and then 3 surfers and it was going off. This is undoubtedly one of the best waves around, it was grinding away each wave the same every 20 seconds or so. We parked up and I just watched it for the afternoon, absolutely filthy waves.
Next day up and out for a surf, there were now two charter boats anchored up and when I got Mo to drop me off I counted 17 people out and it was a fair bit smaller than the day before, 5 or 6 foot and a bit all over the place. I paddled over and got a close out which got the heart going, the reef is sharp and you don’t want to go there. Made it back out and became a lot more choosey about the waves I went for. Ended up getting a good one but it was more takeoff than anything else. Mo came back, that was a quick hour but I was pretty glad to get out of there.
We upped anchor and headed for the Bay of Plenty, on the main island of the Banyacks, P. Tanngku, which is only 12 miles away but then we decided on going to Calm Bay which is on the eastern side and has been recommended to us as the preferred anchorage. We had a course from someone so plotted it and followed it up between an island and then around into the enterance of the bay which kind of turns into an estuary with islands here there and everywhere, pretty snazzy place. We made our way down to the other boats that were anchored up, 02 3.906N 97 20.815E, and who do you think is there, The Beachhouse Boys, we were right next to them before they realized it and then, aah Rod and then all the funny noises they make, it was excellent. Also anchored up was Bonnie who we had last seen in 2011 in Dampier, Black Billy and Surf Machine. We anchored in 12 metres and were visited by the boys, coming for a surf, yeah why not so off we went down a creek that comes out into the bottom of Bay of Plenty, good value, gets pretty shallow in parts especially on low tide.
My first thoughts of the bay were you have got to be kidding, this is unreal, we had Aaron giving directions myself and Mo following Jimmy and Jai and we passed an amazing left hander but headed for the right which looked superb, I was actually hanging to get in, but as soon as I got there Jai said watch out for inside it is really shallow and that burst the bubble I was in, then Quentin off Bonnie paddles past and says don’t stuff up the inside is so shallow, I finally got one wave, it closed out on me and luckily I was able to jump on top of it and come out unscathed, I just paddled over to the dinghy and climbed back in. The boys were going off and excellent to watch with backhand barrels and some sick reos.
We headed back to the boats after they came in but we had a little diversion as Aaron was chasing a doctor about his knee, poor bastard hasn’t surfed for two weeks but has been having to watch his mates going hard, lucky he is Aaron, top bloke but he is shit at guiding you through reefs, go around the bouy and head into the floating surf camp, all good, but luckily I saw the reef out front before we ploughed into it, we bounced off one boondy but were going pretty slow by then.
Back at the boat it was beers, dingen, the boys freezer was rooted so they could not believe how cold the Carlsbergs were, frosty, and they went down a treat. Jen had made a big dish of Tuna Macaroni, Mo was keen on scoffing it before we had visitors but we did the righty and fed them when they came over a bit later to party. Good party, we were fully loaded with the boys, Quentin, Lou Lou and Shaun and I think Matt although in the morning it was all a bit hazy. There was dancing in the cabin with the AC on and the stereo pumping. The boys were frothing for the video, like they are frothing for just about anything, wish I was 23 again, they are certainly doing it right.
Got the paddle board out and paddled out to the reef and back in the morning and felt much better, visited Black Billy, not real flash, they were meant to be leaving that morning. The boys not real flash either so back to the boat feeling as if I must have taken it easy, doubt it though. No surf for me, Jimmy and Jai came back frothing over Jimmy’s SICK barrel, they were pinging.
Smallish gathering with Jen doing the job with rice and papaya salad and I did some salt and pepper squid that I traded with some fishermen. Scored 3 large cuttlefish for 4 sets of Ray Bans, they looked pretty cool and they just kept pulling more and more seafood out of the hull of their boat to give to us, in the end I had to say enough is enough, so generous and when they left they were all wearing their sunny’s, good to see.
Next morning back to the bay, high tide and hooting waves. Surfed the left for a couple of hours and actually caught waves and just started to find my feet again, felt heaps better and enjoyable. Got two pearlers so got to be happy with that. I was surfing with a bloke by the name of Clayton, from Trigg, we had it all to ourselves for an hour or so then the boys came too. Clayton was just going, I can’t believe this, perfect waves, over and over, it really is just that, perfect. I was still gaying out on the big ones but I was happy as.
Next day up early and back for more, I got more waves in an hour than the whole of the day before, my paddling was easy for the first time and I could get to my feet and take off easily instead of kooking around, but it was shallow, my last wave was a beauty but I went to far and got smashed on the reef, got a sore bloody hip and a bit of bark missing but not much else.
Back at the boats Quentin gave us a weather report, which looked ok. The sky was black and rainy looking but light winds so it was decided to get going as we have to get Mo back to Simeulue by Tuesday the 8th, it is only 70 miles so fingers crossed.
I had one last job to do, look at the freezer on Beachhouse, so over I went and wiggled a few wires and the thing starts up, ahha, bad connection somewhere, found the neg was really hot, cut off the spade terminal and replaced it and Wallah, the boys can have icy cold beers again. It has been great to catch up with them, also Quentin and to meet Shaun and LouLou, and the guys on Surfmachine, Rebecca, Keith and Matt, all good dudes all doing it hard in paradise.